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I read on all different types such as aluminum oxide, silicone carbide, etc. and the closed cladding with an open coat. But what about the price? Says, a pack of 5 sheets (sorted) for $ 4 to take / run not least to take / run as a similar box for 10 US dollars?
Note: I loop regularly on hardwood and softwood. Thru hand loops, palm loops and belt loops (depending on the case).
You want to buy the best you can afford, but that's not to say that you will pay the most. The price alone is not a guideline for the quality of anything.
Some people subscribe to the term who more assures that they get a better product, but there are far too many exceptions to follow it as a solid principle (and only in our empire is it easy to discover that it is very Discovered> not true when it comes to modern woodworking tools).
However, it is largely the case with abrasives, if it is very cheap when he is a bit arm, and if you pay more, you will get something better.
Good paper takes longer
It may take a huge, almost incredible difference in the longevity between a truly favorable paper and a decent, with the ten times lasting ten times. I recently found a favorable flint paper, a very old school, and after only a few minutes on mere paper, where you get an hour or more of a similar hand loop from a high-quality resin-bound paper before it is worn, To be used *.
Not only long-lasting
In addition to longevity, there is another topic of grinding quality and that is consistency in the size of the Grit particles. If you've ever sanded something and then noticed a few very obvious deep scratches that are on one or two faulty reed particles that are greater than you should be. This is usually a big problem with cheap papers.
wide-speaking FePA papers (with the P in the number) are screened to a higher uniformity than the American Grading system, Cami. But a good Cami paper is much better than an oral that is supposedly the same grain.
If you get away from the really cheap Selle, you will be good / better / best more complicated. Between various brands of decent paper as well as different types of paper from a manufacturer, the quality can vary in a way that you can not predict, and the price is probably no longer guideline, as it gives a bonus on a brand name rather than another (the problem with wood tools). If you do not want to buy everything and test them yourself, you need specific recommendations of people who have used by people who are available to them, which is available and compared to them.
Last thing, it's not just paper-protected abrasives that we can select from more. There are now abrasive screens or stitches like Abranet to consider, and some types of Schleiffilien are now more generally available.
* Not enough to uncover the backing paper, just worn enough that it is no longer efficient.
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